I
spent Easter of 2006 in Syria. Staying in
Damascus with my husband and youngest son we spent the days sightseeing and evenings
dining in the most exotic restaurants you can imagine, my favourite was on the
top floor of a tall building in the old city with views right over the souk and
mosque and where we watched men and women dancing and even watched a display of
swordsmanship. As I watch the news night
after night showing the death and destruction in this wonderful place I wonder
how long it will be before I can return.
The
following piece is something I wrote a couple of years ago for a writing group
exercise – I hope it will give my readers a taste of the real Syria.
The Marketplace
The
tea was strong and sweet and as I sipped the delicious nectar from the
delicate, decorated glass stikaan the
sounds of the souk seemed to retreat
into the distance and I relaxed in the shade of the fabric shop in the Old City
of Damascus. The shop was part of an
old-style Arab house built around a small courtyard complete with a gentle,
bubbling fountain in the centre and that is where I sat to savour my
refreshment. Around me the house itself
rose on numerous storeys leaving the courtyard in perpetual shade.
I’d
arrived at the shop after a long, hot walk along Straight Street. This was where St Paul
was rescued by Ananais after he was blinded by the light on the road to Damascus and Ananias’
house can still be found within sight of the little shop where I was now
relaxing. The city is steeped in
history, ancient history and parts seem unchanged from those times long
ago. The street itself is, indeed, very
straight and very long, one mile long, stretching across the whole of the old
city and leading from the busy Hamadya
souk with its labyrinth of narrow
passages all under the cover of a steel roof, complete with its many bullet
holes showing evidence of the numerous uprisings against the French during the
1940’s.
The
souk in this part of the city is open
to bright daylight and the small shop fronts lead back into darkness in the
shelter of the ancient Roman-built colonnaded thoroughfare. Each tiny shop with its own speciality: soap
made from local olives or melons cut into square chunks; perfumes selected and
mixed before your eyes; tooth-rotting sweets; delicious cakes; handmade toys,
delicately woven fabrics and clothes, leather shoes, socks made from the finest
silk; ice cream made as you watch – strawberry, vanilla and pistachio and, of
course, the spice shops with sacks of whole and ground spices on display – red
paprika, yellow turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, vanilla - the aromas and
colours assail your senses and mingle with the scents from the perfume and soap
shops and the fruity tobacco of the hubble bubble pipes being smoked in
doorways. In one particular shop I took
the opportunity to look at a selection of exquisite wooden furniture; there was
a range of pieces from enormous six-drawer sideboards and tall wardrobes to
small hexagonal side tables. Each piece
was covered with intricately carved Mother of Pearl flowers telling the story
of the Damascus Rose or geometric, Islamic, patterns. This is where I found what I wanted to take
home with me, a small coffee table decorated with delicate flowers. However, I
would be travelling home alone and was concerned about dealing with such an
item at the airport, so I left it where I found it, tucked away in a dark
corner of the shop.
If
you take the time to roam the alleyways of the main souk which has grown around the Umyyad
Mosque sooner or later you’ll come upon the tomb of the great Saladin, opponent
of Richard the Lion heart during the Crusades.
A constant stream of visitors come to pay their respects at the tomb of
this respected leader who’s castles dot the landscape further north on Syria’s
Mediterranean coast. In front of the
walls of the old city there is a majestic statue of this same Saladin mounted
on a rearing horse and waving his sword as though about to charge into battle.
You
can listen to stories of his triumphs and bravery in a certain roadside cafe
any evening, it’s worth listening to even if you don’t speak Arabic, the
storyteller is so passionate and expressive, his actions so meaningful you
can’t fail to come away feeling you’ve witnessed a battle with this great
military leader.
The
Umyyad Mosque itself is built on the
site of a Roman Temple and a later Christian Church, it is here that the head
of John the Baptist is buried, it is also here that our own St George has been
sighted – I say Our own St George, but he also has a very important place in
Syrian history, although if you ask, as I did, you get the same old story about
him saving a maiden from a fire-breathing dragon. This is the largest mosque in the city and
during Ramadan 2,000 people break their fast here each evening at sunset, it is
quite a sight to see 2,000 places set for dinner on the polished tiles of the
open air courtyard, each place prepared carefully with plate, bread and fruit
with the rice and meat being served hot to each person.
While
I waited for my second cup of tea to cool, I took a few moments to explore the
fabric shop, which had seemed to beckon to me as I passed earlier in the
day. The main room was filled floor to
ceiling with shelves and the shelves were filled with neatly folded fabrics of
every colour and combination of colours you could think of. What I needed was a tablecloth large enough
for my dining table at home. It was new
and I was anxious to keep it covered to save damaging the smooth, rich colour
of the surface. However it was very
large and all my existing cloths had proved to be just an inch or two too
short. The Syrian proprietor, James (for
this was the Christian quarter of the City), showed me numerous cloths and I
wanted them all but I came away with a hand embroidered navy blue cotton cloth
which would compliment my pure white china, and a multi-coloured thick damask
day cloth which reflects the colours of the spice market; rich golds, reds,
browns, yellows and greens and even now, 4 years later, every day when I come
home from work and see my table with the damask cloth I’m briefly transported
to that oasis of calm beside a small fountain in a little shop in Damascus.